Tuesday, January 5, 2010

8 Moharam at Hussaini Kothi Dedicated to Late Nawab Rashid Ali Khan

I must confess my travel agent had goofed when he booked my tickets to shoot Moharam in Hyderabad I was to reach Hyderabad on 8 Moharam late night , and I was keen to shoot the Hussaini Kothi procession , that I had shot in 2003 and had named it Nawab Kothi by mistake.

I again re booked my tickets and my waiting list was 178 , but it did not bother me seat or no seat I wanted to shoot Hussaini Kothi to dedicate it to the soul of Late Nawab Rashid Ali Khan the patriarch who took good care of me was hospitable and I never forgot him or his hospitality.

And so my new set at Flickr is my humble tribute as a photographer to him , this blue blooded Nawab , seeping in the humility of the teachings and life of Imam Hussain..

And the 8 Moharam procession at Hussaini Kothi takes you back into old time Hyderabadi Nawabi charm..dont miss it ever..

The present Nawabs their families were again there as host and unfortunately to my bad luck my battery and charger of my Nikon camera failed I had to leave teary eyed without informing any of them..though on my departure I did inform Ghazanfer Ali Khan son of Rashid Nawab Saab.
I once again thank each and everyone connected to Hussaini Kothi for helping me around and making me feel at home..

Also dont miss my pictures of the Nawabs little kids doing Adab to all those who came for their Majlis and juloos..head bowed they greeted everyone with sheer love and sincerity ..yes they carry their traditions on their frail shoulders..and their children will do the same when their turn comes..

Thank you Ghazanfer Saab for your Invitation into your humble abode...I am indebted to you for all time..

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Live Like Ali Die Like Hussain

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Hai Shai e Karbala Hai Hussain e Gharib

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Branded In Pain

109,704 items / 711,646 views

branded in pain
tears on the soul
of hussain
humanity
as pillars
of Islam
we regain
breaking free forever
from Yazidi chains

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Branded In Pain

109,704 items / 711,646 views

branded in pain
tears on the soul
of hussain
humanity
as pillars
of Islam
we regain
breaking free forever
from Yazidi chains

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The Bibi Ka Alam Heritage of Hyderabad

The Bibi ka Alam is the most awesome procession on Ahura day in Hyderabad, this year I shot it mid way, but in 2003 I shot it from the Bibi Ka Alawa roof top, and the moment the Alam comes out from the Alawa , the entire are gets charged , the frenzy is totally unimaginable even after six years ,the mourners begin cutting their heads every step the Alam moves towards the caparisoned elephant.
The barricaded courtyard one side the Alam making its exit the other side the zanjir matamdars ..and than the Alam begins its journey from the Alawa till Chaddergaht..

Every are the Alam arrives fresh bouts of head cutting begin, the Alam has precious stones in pouches so the securtiy is impregnable..behind the elephant are Shia youth, police personal , in front cavalry, more security forces..the camels other alms too precede the Bibi Ka Alam.

The scourgings the head cuttings take place behind the Bibi Ka Alam.. it enters winding lanes , and the Alam on the way enters the Bargah of the Holy Prophet , here the cutting and scourging is almost 100 fold.. now you imagine that.

I left the juloos before it reached its final destination , for Shias like me the Shame E Ghariba too holds a very important significance..I dont know how I covered this distance , my feet were bleeding, my head wounds were raw and I returned to the Choti Bargah at midnight..

The following morning I took a train back to Mumbai from Nampally .

I will complete this 1 GB card , than post events of 9 Moharam at the Mir Mousavi Shia cemetery Deira Hyderabad, and the most stunning moments of 8 Moharam at Hussaini Kothi, Choti Bargah and the Bargah.

This was the day I had arrived in Hyderabad

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Bibi Ka Alam Procession Hyderabad 2009

109,542 items / 711,021 views

I continue with the last lot of the Bibi Ka Alam pictures I had kept this on hold to clear my Mumbai Moharam and some street pictures back log..before I left for Hyderabad to shoot Ashura.

The pictures that I am posting now are record pictures my camera lens was drenched with rose water and blood I was drenched too, so I continued shooting it in the way I was.. Neither was there anything to dry my lens , all shops were closed on this stretch.

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Shooting Chehlum in Mumbai

Shooting Moharam gets me low , and I have shot Moharam in most of the cities where Moharam is held with Ghame Hussain as its main mode of action..Azadari e Hussain is what keeps Moharam alive , and wherever a Shia family lives Moharam its torch burns brightly.

Every house has their annual majlis at home and this continues through Moharam.. two months eight days.

The next biggest event of Moharam after Ashura which was the 10 day of Moharam, is Chehlum ..also known as Arbayeen or the 40 th day of Moharam.

In Mumbai the Moharam crowds during Chehlum exceed over 10 lacs or more, the Juloos or procession starts from JJ Hospital junction and also from Moghul Masjid , and proceeds towards Rehmatabad Shia cemetery.

On the streets of Mumbai , the zanjir matam, the Iraqi Kama matam continues with Nohakars from every Anjuman reciting their stuff.. their are also contingents that come from other cities to participate in Mumbai Arbayeen or Chelum.
So you have Kashmiri guys , or Hyderabadi guys doing the blade matam..

But the most ferocious , the most delirious moment of blood letting takes place at the Rehmatabad Shia cemetery soon after the short Majlis gets over..It is a virtual stampede and the Mumbaikar Shia is unstoppable , the swords the zanjirs and the kamas cut through the air into flesh and bone.

And if you can shoot this you can shoot death in the face too..this I say in total humility as a photographer and as a Shia blogger.

There is no saying when a blade will cut open your hands eyes or your person , I shoot close very close..but thanks to the veterans and friends I get a safe passage among the matamdars.

As of now I am not sure where I will shoot Chehlum , it all depends on my friend Dr Glenn Losack MD from Brooklyn Manhattan.

I will only make plans on his arrival I owe him this much.

For the non Muslim shooting Moharam a black shirt gets ready acceptance , and for the woman photographer a back scarf on the heads earns her respect.. and Moharam in Mumbai is shot mostly barefeet, or you keep your shoes in a plastic bag when you enter the cordon where the blood letting happens..

As a almost known Shia face I have had problems , as some guys dont like their pictures being taken of a very private spiritual moment happening in public.

So these are just a few tips in case as an amateur you want to shoot this event..I am an amateur too at heart..I dont need to tell this to the photo journalist of Mumbai..he is million light years ahead of you and me..he shoots with the latest gizmos we shoot with our eyes and nothing else the camera is merely an appendage of our pedestrian vision...over reaching its human constrains for all all times..

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